Holy Week: A Tale of Two Cities
It's holy week in Mexico. Church bells punctuate the intervals between parades of feathered dancers who beat the drums before a huge figure of Jesus. A parade of pilgrims winds its way through the dusty cobblestoned streets until it arrives at the San Juan de Dios Church.
"El Señor de la Columna" has arrived. The Lord of the Column is a figure of Jesus dressed in purple robes and crown of thorns bearing the huge cross upon which he is to be crucified. While in other parts of the world it is the resurrection that is the culmination of holy week, here it is the crucifixion. On Friday, the procession of silence will be held. Giant crosses and figures of Jesus and Mary are born through the streets to solemn music and incense.
It's hard to describe the actual event without sounding hyperbolic. The streets are choked with Roman soldiers, Aztec dancers, Gringo tourists, well-dressed Catholic citizens, ands brass bands. The church bells and drums are deafening, but less so than the constant firecrackers and skyrockets announcing the crucifixion of the prince of Peace.
Meanwhile in India, in Nabadwip Dhama there is another celebration. There, the my friends, the acolytes of Krishna celebrate the golden avatar, Chaitanya Mahaprabhu with song and dance. Hand drums and finger cymbals celebrate the holy name of God, proclaimed as the best means of salvation for the age.
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Swamis walk barefoot on trails through the rice paddies in search of the holy places where Nimai Pandit and his friend Nitai brought rich and poor, brahmins and śudras, and even muslims and nonbelievers together in song and praise of the holy name.
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